Observations on decadal sandbar behaviour along a large-scale curved shoreline

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dc.identifier.uri http://dx.doi.org/10.15488/12305
dc.identifier.uri https://www.repo.uni-hannover.de/handle/123456789/12403
dc.contributor.author Gijsman, R.
dc.contributor.author Ruessink, B.G.
dc.contributor.author Visscher, J.
dc.contributor.author Schlurmann, T.
dc.date.accessioned 2022-06-21T05:47:17Z
dc.date.available 2022-06-21T05:47:17Z
dc.date.issued 2021
dc.identifier.citation Gijsman, R.; Ruessink, B.G.; Visscher, J.; Schlurmann, T.: Observations on decadal sandbar behaviour along a large-scale curved shoreline. In: Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 46 (2021), Nr. 2, S. 490-503. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/esp.5041
dc.description.abstract Nearshore sandbars are characteristic features of sandy surf zones and have been observed with a variety of geometries in cross-shore (e.g. location) and longshore direction (e.g. planform). Although the behaviour of sandbars has been studied extensively on spatial scales up to kilometres and timescales up to years, it remains challenging to observe and explain their behaviour on larger spatial and temporal scales, especially in locations where coastline curvature can be prominent. In this paper, we study a data set with 38 years of coastal profiles, collected with alongshore intervals of 50 m, along the 34 km-long curved sandy shoreline of Sylt island, Germany. Sylt's shoreline has an orientation difference of ~20° between the northern and southern half of the island. We found that the decadal coastal profiles on the southern half show features of a low-tide terrace and a sandbar located further from the shoreline (~441 m). On the nothern half, the sandbar was located closer to the shoreline (~267 m) and was less pronounced, while the profiles show transverse bar and rip features. The alongshore planform also differed systematically and significantly along the two island sides. The sandbar on the southern island half, with alongshore periodicity on a larger length scale (~2240 m), was coupled out-of-phase to the shoreline, while no phase coupling was observed for the sandbar with periodicity on a shorter length scale (~670 m) on the northern half. We related the observed geometric differences of the sandbars to the difference in the local wave climate along Sylt, imposed by the shoreline shape. Our observations imply that small alongshore variations in wave climate, due to the increasing shoreline curvature on larger spatial scales, can lead to significant alongshore differences in the decadal evolution of coastal profiles, sandbars and shorelines. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd eng
dc.language.iso eng
dc.publisher New York, NY [u.a.] : Wiley
dc.relation.ispartofseries Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 46 (2021), Nr. 2
dc.rights CC BY 4.0 Unported
dc.rights.uri https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.subject alongshore variability eng
dc.subject coastal profiles eng
dc.subject curved coastlines eng
dc.subject nearshore morphology eng
dc.subject nearshore sandbars eng
dc.subject sandbar–shoreline coupling eng
dc.subject Landforms eng
dc.subject Earth surface process eng
dc.subject Geometric difference eng
dc.subject Low tide terraces eng
dc.subject Phase coupling eng
dc.subject Sandy shoreline eng
dc.subject Spatial and temporal scale eng
dc.subject Spatial scale eng
dc.subject Wave climates eng
dc.subject Coastal engineering eng
dc.subject coastal morphology eng
dc.subject nearshore environment eng
dc.subject periodicity eng
dc.subject sandbar eng
dc.subject shoreline eng
dc.subject surf zone eng
dc.subject Germany eng
dc.subject North Frisian Islands eng
dc.subject Schleswig-Holstein eng
dc.subject Sylt eng
dc.subject.ddc 910 | Geografie, Reisen ger
dc.title Observations on decadal sandbar behaviour along a large-scale curved shoreline
dc.type Article
dc.type Text
dc.relation.essn 1096-9837
dc.relation.doi https://doi.org/10.1002/esp.5041
dc.bibliographicCitation.issue 2
dc.bibliographicCitation.volume 46
dc.bibliographicCitation.firstPage 490
dc.bibliographicCitation.lastPage 503
dc.description.version publishedVersion
tib.accessRights frei zug�nglich

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